Hiking
Mount Rausu
羅臼岳
Route from Iwaobetsu Onsen Trailhead
Route Information
- Distance: 13.8 kms return
- Elevation: 1476m
- Time: 8.5 hours
- Difficulty: 7/10
- On Season: June to October
About Mount Rausu
Mount Rausu is the tallest peak found in Shiretoko National Park, a world heritage site with the highest density of bears in Japan. On a clear day it affords an amazing view over the Shiretoko Mountain Range.
Although being in the middle of bear country is daunting, they aren’t often found on the trail itself. I saw a few fishing in the rivers near the sea on my way to and from the hike.
The Hike
I got started right around 0730 after signing in to the log book. The only bathroom is in the onsen parking lot, so make sure to go here unless you have mobile toilet bags. I had my bear horn easy to access, as Shiretoko National Park has the highest density of bears in Japan, and I’d already seen a couple near town the day before. I always sing loudly while hiking, as bears are deterred by human voices and sounds.
The beginning section of the hike was pretty easy, and the effects of autumn could clearly be seen in the leaves. There were a lot of sections with lower trees, where it was pretty easy to hit your head if you lost concentration. I had been expecting the trail to be much muddier as there’d been a couple of days of rain, but footing was pretty easy. It is obviously a well maintained route.
The only water source is around 90 minutes in, and comes from a natural spring. It is considered safe to fill up with, and you’ll often see locals filling up. Not too long after is the toilet hut, where toilet bags can be used if you brought them. The change in weather can be felt at this point, and I took this opportunity to put on all of my rain and wind prevention gear, as well as my gloves. Things got a lot steeper and involved a little bit of climbing. For a couple of minutes I was even snowed, a sign of hiking so late in the season as this was also the first day Mount Yotei had snow this year.
I made it to Rausu-Daira at around 1030, the campsite used by hikers with a convenient metal box to store food inside to prevent bears. It was forecast to be a cloudy day, but as I ascended it was increasingly cold and windy. The plants were covered in frost, and sight more than a few metres was difficult. It’s worth making sure you know your route, as there are a few different options from here and the signs were not always very clear.
A couple of hikers who had not come prepared passed me in only shorts and a T-shirt, looking very cold and damp. While the snow had stopped, there were intense winds and I couldn’t take any breaks except for the odd photo. The path has also become just as much climbing as walking, and I had to be very careful not to slip. Even the plants were strange to brush past as they were frozen and hard to push past.
I reached the summit just after 1130, and had to crawl to the sign showing the 1661m of elevation as all of the rocks were frosted, and the wind threatened to bowl me over. I couldn’t stay long as I was definitely starting to feel the cold. In some ways the descent was harder because the cold was really seeping into my bones at this point and I couldn’t keep my camera dry.
The climb back down to Rausu-Diara wasn’t any worse than the way up. I was lucky enough to have a change in weather and increased visibility, so the view was spectacular. The autumn colours were really spectacular, and the walk back was mainly a race with time as the sun descended. I was in too much of a rush and rolled my ankle pretty hard around a kilometre from the end.
I reached the hut again just after 1600, and made sure to sign in the book that I had returned from my hike. The owner of the hut had been packing up for the winter in the morning, and left me a couple of drinks in my cup holders. On the hour-long ride back to Utoro I saw 5 different bears in or around the river, most likely out as the sun was going down. Only one of them was anywhere near me, and there were a bunch of tourists photographing it in between me and it.
I made it back to my accommodation as the street lights came on and could finally look at my fat ankle. The hike was well worth it, and at least my accommodation had a public bath to relax in.
Accommodation Options
Iwaobetsu Onsen – this is the most popular option, as the hotel is located right in front of the trailhead. The price was approximately 10,000 yen for a solo person per night when I was here in October 2023.
Kinoshita Hut – A mountain hut right next to the hotel, at the entry point of the trailhead. It is open from the middle of June to the end of September. Staying here requires you to bring everything for yourself, including food and bedding. The cost per night is 2,500 yen per person. A difficulty for foreigners is that the owner of the cabin does not speak English, and you have to call to book.
Staying in Utoro – I made the decision to stay at a hostel in Utoro that was 2850 yen per night to save on costs, and I think this would be a good option for people with cars or who can take the bus because are camping on the hike and can start a bit later. The bike ride to the trail was a hilly 13 kms and took me more than an hour.
Special Notes
The area has a lot of services that are not open year round. When I was here at the beginning of October the buses were closing down and some of the restaurants were closed. The hut at the trailhead had also just closed for the winter.
This hike is also in the middle of bear country. While there’s some discussion on what is most effective to stop an attack, there is no argument that preventing an encounter is the safest course. I don’t personally believe that bear bells work to notify a bear of a human as well as making a lot of sound does. If you do come across one make sure to stay calm, don’t turn away and slowly back away from it.
Stay safe and enjoy your journey.