Hiking
Mount Rishiri
利尻山
Route from Rishiri Hokuroku Campsite (The Oshidomari Route)
Distance: 12.97km
Elevation: 1497m
Time: 9 hours
Difficulty: 6/10
Best Time to Visit: June to September
Toilets en route: One at trailhead, hut for mobile toilet bag around halfway.
Water Availability: One spring 15 minutes from the beginning.
About Mount Rishiri
Pre-Hike
My chosen campsite named “YUNI” was around two kilometers downhill from the trailhead at Hokuroku Camp Site. While it was definitely a walkable distance, I chose to cycle up the hill. After signing in at the hut and using the bathroom I got started on the hike just after 6am.
One of the best things about hiking on Rishiri was that the island has no bears or other large predators. Usually on a hike in Japan I always need to be wary and make a lot of noise, but on this hike I could just relax into it.
Getting Going
It was pretty simple for the first few kilometers, and I found the perfect stick near the entrance to play my pretend hiking poles. It’s clear that a lot of work has been done on this trail over the last few years, as there’s lots of fresh sections. Looking at other blogs detailing the hike it seems like the toilet hut has been replaced, as well as the way being made easier and more carved out in general.
Once leaving the forest the surrounding views were amazing, and I found it easy to see Rebun Island (礼文島) in the distance, as well as Mount Rishiri in front of me. I have a bad habit of hiking on overcast days, so from the 7th or so station up my visibility was greatly reduced.
Nearly there
Not too far from the summit there were signs up and bags of dirt piled around, in an initiative to get hikers to carry up 2kgs of dirt to a higher point to help in the refurbishment of the trail. They needed to be carried up a pretty steep section, but I found satisfying knowing that I was helping future hikers. It was also amusing to keep an eye on other hikers who chose not to carry any up.
Although the peak was generally pretty low in visibility, the shrine at the top was lovely. There were moments where the wind would pick up and the clouds would suddenly break, causing hurried excitement to see the view and try to snap a quick picture.
And back down again
The way down was also stunning, this was definitely one of my favourite hikes in terms of not only seeing trees, but getting to see the areas around during it. As it was later in the day more animals could be spotted, though they were often to fast to catch a picture of.
I got to see some squirrels and a variety of mushrooms and insects along the way. Once again I was glad for the lack of bears on the island, so a crack in the woods didn’t spook me, and I could try to spot whatever critter it was making noise.
Back at base
Luckily my bike was still locked to the cabin at the start, so I rode back down to my campsite. “YUNI” is fortunately situated right across from Rishiri Fuji Onsen (利尻富士温泉), and a visit there is a must after the hike, to soak your bones and have a beer or ice cream.
I definitely think I either overestimated my abilities or underestimated the online guidelines. This hike took me pretty much the full recommended time even though I was walking at full pelt for the last section.
Getting There and Accommodation
Rishiri Island is only accessible on a Heartland Ferry from Wakkanai or the Rebun Island, though this can be done with a car. The timetable changes season to season, so it’s best to check in advance to get there at the correct time. I caught the first ferry of the morning from Wakkanai with my bike, and spent the first day cycling around the island.
There’s lots of choices for accommodation on the island, and even a couple of convenience stores. I stayed at “YUNI” campsite across from Rishiri Fuji Onsen (利尻富士温泉), which involved cycling up to the trailhead a couple of kilometres. There’s another campsite right at the trailhead, but it is much further from town, so make sure to bring food with you.
Luckily my bike was still locked to the cabin at the start, so I rode back down to my campsite, which was luckily right across from Rishiri Fuji Onsen. A visit here is a must after the hike, to soak your bones and have a beer or ice cream.
Notes
Rishiri Island (利尻島) definitely has an on season and off season, so it is worth making sure what is available when you hope to visit. When I went at the end of September they were already reducing hours for services.
Stay safe and have an amazing journey.
